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Diving Tobermory, Ontario

By: Dan Holden Bailey

 


Eroded rocks at Flowerpot Island.

 

Snorkeler, Cove Island Lighthouse.

 

 

Diver over bow of the Sweepstakes.

When I want to do some easy diving in clear, fairly warm water and don't have the time or money to go to the Caribbean or other points south, I load my dive gear in my Yukon and head for Tobermory, Ontario. From Detroit, Michigan it's an easy five-hour drive, but it usually takes me longer because of the Tim Horton's roadblocks. Take Highway 6 north, from Owen Sound, and you're in Tobermory when you get to the end of the road. Situated at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula, a stretch of land separating Georgian Bay (the world's largest freshwater bay from the main body of Lake Huron) this town once supported a thriving fishing and logging industry. Today, visitors are drawn here by a plethora of camping areas and hiking trails on the mainland and on several nearby islands.

But what lures me here, along with hundreds of other divers, is Fathom Five National Marine Park. As Canada's first such preserve, Fathom Five was created to preserve the twenty-plus shipwrecks that have gone down over the years in the immediate area. Most were sunk in accidents or storms, but several have recently been intentionally scuttled for recreational use.

Tobermory's newest shipwreck is the Niagara II, a 180-foot steel freighter, sitting upright in 100 feet of water. Purposefully sunk east of Tobermory, just outside the marine park, the ship was built in England in 1930, and sailed under five different names before ending its career in 1999. The mooring buoy is tied off to the ship at a depth of about 48 feet. All doors and hatches were removed prior to sinking for diver safety. The 132-foot schooner, Caroline Rose, is nearby in Driftwood Cove. After sinking in 1990 while docked in Owen Sound, the ship was raised and towed to Driftwood Cove to create a dive site. Due to controversy however, it was placed just outside the marine park's boundaries. The depth here is only 55-feet, allowing much of the wreck to be explored without going below the thermocline.

A very easy wreck dive, perfect for beginners, is the 218-foot Sweepstakes. This two-masted schooner was towed here after running aground on Cove Island in August 1885, but was so badly damaged it sank before repairs could be made. Lying in only 20 feet of water near the end of Big Tub Harbour, the Sweepstakes is largely intact. It sits upright on a sandy, sparsely vegetated bottom. Much of the railing is still there, as is the large windlass on the forward deck. In recent years, due to the ships' age, steel rods have been placed in the hull for support. Penetration is no longer allowed for the same reason. While in the water, watch out for the glass-bottomed tour boats that frequent the wreck.

Another shallow wreck in Big Tub Harbour is the City of Grand Rapids, a 122-foot double-decked steamer that caught fire while at dock in 1907 and sank after burning to the water line. The hull, lying on its starboard side, is largely intact, but the holds are filled with silt. The ship's rudder and propeller are in display at the Tobermory and St. Edmunds Township Museum south of town on Highway 6.

The 213-foot steamer, W. L. Wetmore is one of Fathom Five's best wreck dives. Scattered about a large area in 20-25 feet of water off Russell Island, are huge sections of the ship's wooden deck, large timbers, her sheared-off 15-foot propeller, and the 25-foot drive shaft. The large, algae-encrusted boiler remains, rising twelve feet above the bottom. A large chain leads away from the wreck to a massive anchor that was placed there later. The water is usually very clear, due to the rocky bottom.

The remains of the James C. King are found around the point of Russel Island, from the Wetmore. The 175-foot schooner rests on a steep slope, with the bow at 20 feet and the stern in 95 feet of water. A large portion of the starboard section lies 200 feet to the west in 25 feet of water.

Perhaps the most intact wreck in the park is the Arabia, a 131-foot three-masted barque (baroque?) that foundered in heavy seas and sank in 1884. Heavily laden with 20,000 bushels of corn and taking on water, the Arabia was abandoned by her exhausted crew, sinking off Echo Island in 110-120 feet of water. A portion of the main deck and transom has collapsed, but most of the hull is intact, with the bowsprit pointing towards the inky depths. Much of the ship's equipment, such as the windlass, anchors, deadeyes, catheads, and even the less-than-adequate bilge pump, remain for divers to investigate. Visibility is often poor here, and the water is always bone chilling at this depth, making this a wreck for experienced divers only.

For shore divers, there are several dive spots around Tobermory. Four sunken tugs can be dived from the large wooden dock at Lee Brothers Fisheries, near the entrance to Little Tub Harbour. The Alice G, Robert K, Bob Foote, and John & Alex are scattered nearby in only twenty feet of water. The rugged shoreline and underwater rock formations found on Flowerpot Island are interesting to explore. You can take one of several cruise boats out to the island and catch another one back to the mainland after diving.

There are many other dive sites around Tobermory such as the Caves, located ten miles east, which is also a popular swimming area for hikers. The large caverns here are easily accessible with open-air areas above the surface of the water. Outside, the bottom is a jumble of boulders, some as large as a house. Large schools of baitfish hang out in the shallow water, their scales iridescent in the sun's beams.

Tobermory has become one of Ontario's premier dive destinations, thanks to its excellent wreck diving, clear water, and convenient lodging. With the creation of the Marine Park, there's a very good chance the wrecks will still be around in a well-preserved state for the next generation of divers.

DIVING DETAILS: Diving season runs from late May through October, although G&S Watersports, is open all year. Visibility is usually 30 feet or more, but less in a few areas with silted bottoms. Water temperature above the thermocline can reach 60 degrees in late summer, but is always colder below, which can be as deep as 60 feet in late summer. Sheltered dive spots are available if the wind is blowing. Divers are required to register at the Park Visitor Center in Tobermory on their first visit each year. A BCD tag, costing $8, is required and is good for the entire season. The Tobermory Hyperbaric Facility is located on Highway 6, outside of town.

Contact Information: 
Fathom Five National Marine Park: (519) 596-2503
G&S Watersports: (519) 596-2200
Tobermory Chamber of Commerce: (519) 596-2452

Diver drowns of Pulmonary Edema while diving Tobermory wreck

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Updated  September 15, 2003