Scuba Diving club, Southern
California
Sea Sabres
San Lucas, Baja Mexico
MARCH & APRIL 2003
SAM & BETTY MILLER
& MAX THE DOG
This is an
account of our second trip this year to Baja. We traveled to a small
village south of Santa Rosalia; Baja Mexico called San Lucas, a distance
of over 1000 miles from our home. It is not the distance or the
destination but rather the adventure is traveling through and experiencing
Baja.
Departed late, so what is new?
Betty was driving therefore we became lost and ended up
in downtown Tia Juana on Saturday evening during rush hour-- Wandered
around and finally discovered the toll road. Now that was a thrill!
(Getting lost and finding the toll road)
First stop Ensenada. Normally we overnight at
Kings Cornuta just north of town, how ever since Elise has passed away the
prices continue to increase; last trip was $20.00 (US) + $10.00 key deposit
which could not be returned until after 9:00 am, no guard and NO hot
water.
This trip we decided on an old stand by, Granada Cove, just
north of Kings. The RV/camping area was vacant so we had the choice of
spots. No one came by for payment, so don't know the cost.
"unregalo por nada"
We continued south. When we passed Guerrero
Negro it was still daylight so we opted for San Ignacio. A mistake!
We violated our rule never to travel after dark in Baja--- did about 75
miles in the dark--It is DARK in Baja and cattle, horses, burros and who
knows what else collects at the edge of the road. Thrill a mile!
Stopped at Padrino's in San Ignacio and inquired about a whale
watching trip.
Enoch Padrino came by at 7:00am the WW trip was on at 8:00
am @$60.00 per person. We of course said YES!
The trip to the lagoon was about an hour and a half at flank
speed on a poorly graded road in a Ford Van that had certainly seen better
days, but managed to get us and five other passengers to the water with out
incident.
The actual WW was spectacular! Whales every
where! Lots of them doing spy hopping. Had several surface next to
the panga (a special Mexican fishing boat) and rub their bodies against
the panga, possibly to remove marine growth. It was certainly better than
the Guerrero WW trip of several years previous.
Lunch was $8.00 US per person. We ordered Cajas en Ajo
(scallops in Garlic) it was OK-- but I would probably bring a snack the
next time and forgo the blue plate special lunch.
Visited with Mr. Sanchez, the manager of the La
Pinto hotel at San Ignacio and had a personal tour of his art
studio. His work is exceptional! Will probably purchase a
print or two on a future trip.
On to Bahia, San Lucas. Parked on the beach and set up
camp. Almost immediately the wind started blowing and continued for the
remainder of the time we were in camp.
Betty managed to do some early morning kayaking with Max in Allen's
boat-as ours remained on the top of the Forerunner.
Started to Loreto to visit Susan Spetch, made it to the end
of Bahia Conception before the wind increased in velocity to a dangerous level,
so we high tailed it back to camp. Luckily for us Allen had put all our
outdoor items away so didn't suffer any losses.
We have been subsidizing several Kindergartens and
public schools and donating books to a library for several years, this
year was no exception. We donated ten large cartoons of
new instructional books to San Lucas grade school and two boxes
of supplies to the kindergarten.
It was refreshing to see the excitement in the children
eyes by these donations, and especially when we handed out See's Candy to
each of them.
Visited with Bill & Bonnie, Bob and Pat, Allen, Richard,
and Ken, who are all doing well and enjoying life.
Betty has been bringing the latest CDs and a portable player
so we watched several of the latest releases in the cozy comfort of our
trailer.
Went north to Bahia de Los Angeles, (the Bay of Angeles,)
and indeed it is, the view of the bay from atop the knoll is always
a visual feast for tired eyes.
Spent a number of days with our dear friends Sam and
Debbie Lecocq who have lived at the bay for about 12 years.
Stopped by the police station to renew our friendship with
the commandante, Eloy and his wife Rosey. We presented them with
pictures taken on a previous trip when we donated several cases of books to the
library. Fortunately for us and especially Eloy, the Delgado (mayor)
dropped in so additional pictures were in order...
Visited with Reverend Freddie and his lovely wife Adriana
who prepared a wonderful lunch of Pollo Mole (aka chocolate
chicken) it was delicious! I can't recall ever having any so well prepared
and presented. My only regret is that we can't prepare it like Adriana.
Sam, Debbie and Betty went fishing. In less than
an hour and always in sight of shore came in with a tub of tasty bay bass which
we had no problem in consuming in the next few days.
We took a day trip to Mission San Borja which is located
about 50 miles from the bay on relatively good dirt roads-for Baja. San
Borja, which was originally subsidized by Cesar Borja, (yes, the one and the
same of Italian court intrigue) is about 80% complete and is
still under going restoration. Highly recommend a visit to the
mission.
Over nighted at San Quintin (pronounced San ka-teen)
following the advice of Bob & Joy, Chuck Mitchell and others we decide
on a plate of crab claws at Clelito Linda. First a Maggie--it was the
largest I have ever experienced -a great warm up for the crab claws---a heaping
14 inch platter piled high with steaming claws cooked in a special Mexican
sauce. The cost? $18.00 US total for two Maggies and two platters of
claws. I also discovered that if you eat there the the camping is
only $5.00 complete with all services instead of the normal $8.00.
Showers were hot but the drain needed attention.
The following morning we decided to drive about 3/4
mile out to a lonely stretch of beach to the gypsy camp and have the
famous the” Wet Buzzard" breakfast burritos. (The place is
named after two buzzards that are stuffed and displayed above the door)
We discovered the served the very best burritos ever! Betty had an
egg burrito, I had a chorizos (a Mexican sausage) followed by a cheese burrito.
Certainly revisit these places on future trips south!
On the advice of Sam & Debbie stopped at Calimax rather
than Giante (pronounced He-gaunt-e) for a supply of cheese and jalapeno
bolillos (a French style roll.) They were correct the Calimax
bolillos were better.
We have been stopping at the KOA 15 miles east of Tecate
since it first opened. KOAs are certainly not our style, but this
one is special. It was identified as the number one KOA in the world last
year. Great place, clean, neat, all services with great showers.
We had no problem crossing the border at Tecate.
Surprisingly we have had the same border guard for a number of crossings, he
always recognizes us by the Kayaks and the tiny trailer so we had a catch up
chat. I wonder what the people in line behind us were thinking.
We were subject to a rather extensive agriculture inspection
at the border but had nothing to declare and the guard found nothing illegal.
Home, that evening about 9:00 pm. Finally removed the
Kayaks! Washed and stored them.
Posted August 13, 2003